Spring has Sprung!

Oh, I know, it has been months since I have written. I have no good excuse other than I have been thoroughly enjoying myself in Italy. Last time I wrote, I was in Slovenia. Then it was Thanksgiving and after that, Tim came here for Christmas, as well as our good friend Sydney. In January, I went home to the States for three weeks. After I returned, Tim's lovely mother come to visit for two more weeks and somehow, now, it's March. Last week was Spring Break here and I celebrated by staying in Florence! It was wonderful to just be here with no pressures, no agenda, and such a beautiful apartment to call home!

So much has happened since last I wrote. First, my friend Andriana and her husband welcomed their first child, a son, a couple of weeks ago. As well, 3 other couples I know are now expecting their first child, including Joe and Donna who are hopefully reading this! My friend Doug was married in November and my friends in Pozzo are soon to be married (May 8th). Congratulations to everyone! What a year!

The weather and the food continue to get better with every day that passes. (Not that either were bad to begin with.) And each day here, I still find something that is new to me or just makes me smile and be thankful for this experience!

So, why am I writing today? Because spring has sprung in Florence and I just feel like doing a dance or something and sharing it with all of you. It is only 8:30 a.m. here and I've already been up for almost three hours. In that time I have scrubbed the bathroom floor, put the laundry in, done the dishes, gone to the market, and made what could be considered my best omelet yet! It was very simple, but using only the freshest ingredients from the market: eggs, pecorino cheese, and scallions; it was also incredible. I topped it off with slices of tomatoes (uncooked!) and some fresh Tuscan (unsalted) bread. YUMMY! Today I was also fortunate enough to find strawberries ready to eat! I am saving these babies for later on today though, when I need a break from work. Boy, I love the food here!

If you have never been to a European market of any kind, you are really missing out. It is a place full of action, tantalizing smells and a world of color! I usually go late in the day, but thanks to whatever is going on with my sleep cycle, I was able to get there very early this morning and what a difference it made. Instead of being a frantic atmosphere where all the farmers are trying to get you to buy something, while all the clients are pushing their way to the front of the stands; this morning it was a pleasant place to stroll through. Before 8 am, the market at S. Ambrogio (and maybe also at S. Lorenzo) is just for those with a plan. It is for residents and citizens, not tourists. You could tell the difference. Those of us there this morning, knew what we wanted and from which vendor we wanted it. It was the time that folks come to chat with their favorite vendors, who have somehow also become friends. It is also the time to get what you need and peek at the those items that you might consider for tomorrow's meals. After this morning's experience I am now hoping that I can get myself up and out early from now, just so I can take advantage of the market as much as possible before I find myself on a plane back to the states in August, which I am sure will be here before I know it. :(

Oh the places she'll go!

I am writing to you once again from Hostel Celica, the former prison turned Slovenian budget getaway. In realty, this hostel should be number one on any vacationer's list. Ok, hostels aren't for everyone, but this place is an experience on its own. I've noticed that it's also a destination within itself and the guests that are staying here now, range in age from 20 something to 80 something. In fact, last night, my roommate was my new friend Michiko, whom I met while traveling in Lake Bled yesterday. She is a phenomenal woman, by any and all standards.

Michiko was born in Tokyo almost 80 years ago and speaks very broken English. Her home is now, and has been for the past 18 years in Honolulu. She has LITERALLY traveled the world on her own. Most notable is the fact that she did not travel at all until she retired at the age of almost 55. She has never married and I believe, from what I have seen that she does not regret this fact. She told me and another person that we met yesterday, Paul from San Fransisco, that she used to take photos of all her travels and now they all sit in a box and in albums at her home. She no longer takes more photos because she believes that not having children or grandchildren, means that no one would be interested in her stories or photos, but boy is she wrong!

Her stories entranced Paul and I all day yesterday! Today she and I traveled together, while Paul went hiking in the Alps. It turns out that Michiko was 12 years old during WWII and at that time, 12 year olds in Japan stopped going to school and started working in the factories, building guns, airplanes, bombs, etc. for the war. Michiko was one of these children. As well, at 2 years old, she was kidnapped by a man who was known for selling children into slavery in Singapore. Luckily, a neighbor saw the man grab her and called for help. Michiko remembers no more after she was grabbed, until she returned home. She has been to every habitable continent at least twice! Tomorrow, she is off to Croatia, because she has never been there. When I asked her why she came to Ljubljana she said that she just wanted to see it. I also asked her if she ever read up on places before going there and she said no. She just goes and whatever happens happens. She believes that she has a guardian angel on her shoulder and I'm inclined to agree.

So, if any of you out there ever thinks about traveling to a new place, but fears it, I encourage you to think of Michiko, because she puts even me to shame. I can only hope to travel to half the places she has been to.

Ok, that's all for now. I will update you all on the rest of my trip...the more scenic elements and touristic delights; such as the best soup I have ever had in my life, when I return to Florence tomorrow!

For now, goodnight from Slovenia!

So far, so fabulous!

Ok, I have to make this quick, because I do not know how much internet time I have left! I have made it to Slovenia, Ljubljana to be exact. The bus ride was actually quite nice and relaxing. I made sure I did not sleep on the bus though, so I could sleep at the hostel.

Though the location of Hostel Celica leaves a bit to be desired; there are graffiti covered walls all around and not great lighting at night; the hostel itself is incredible. Last night there was an Irish band performing and they played everything from traditional drinking songs to Johnny Cash. Other folks who had brought instruments with them, even jumped in and jammed. There was also a local wine tasting, which was very nice and very cheap. So, I drank two glasses of the red, before I realized that the guidebooks said not to miss out on the white...maybe tonight.

My roommate last night, was a very quiet and timid Japanese guy from Japan...who was here only to sleep. This morning he got up at 5 am and raced out to see the castle in town. Then he came back, checked out and went to rent a car to drive to Croatia. I hope I get a good roommate again tonight! The only other problem with this hostel is that folks are up at all hours. I am so glad that I brought ear plugs with me though!!!

Well I am off to see the city now and will do my best to keep you posted! Sorry, no pics from the road this time though...it is too difficult to manage the uploading at internet cafes! Ciao for now!!!

Happy Birthday to me!

As I write today’s blog, my birthday is almost over, at least in Italy. Today I have been overwhelmed by the kindness of my friends and loved ones. I awoke to find countless birthday wishes on my Facebook account as well as emails in my inbox. These messages come on top of the recent influx of cards and letters I have received in the mail and of course the phone calls from those closest to me. Let me tell you there is nothing like spending your birthday in a foreign country to help you take stock, not only of the year that has passed, but of what is important in life. The best gifts I could have received are exactly those that I got; good thoughts and well wishes from all over the United States and Europe.
Today it was easy to spend time reflecting on the past year and also on the last birthday I celebrated in Florence, four years ago. Boy, I was a completely different person then than I am now, and very thankful for it. At the time, I had just left the theatre, which let’s be honest, had been my security blanket for so many years. In Florence, I started over again. I was living in a new place, learning about a new culture, and struggling with a new language, but somehow in that year, I blossomed. It was during that time that I started on the path that led me to the University of Chapel Hill and oddly enough, back to Florence.
When I arrived in Italy four years ago, the only people I knew in this town were the other Americans from my Middlebury program and that is exactly who I spent my birthday with in 2005.
Things are much much different this time around. I arrived here with a confidence that I could not have imagined. I was homesick for a bit, but after just two months, I’m pretty much over it and settling in to my temporary home in Florence. I will mark my 38th birthday tomorrow night at a little restaurant where I have become a regular and I will celebrate, not in the company of other Americans, but surrounded by Italian friends…the same people I first met in 2005-06. I never could have imagined during that year that I would maintain any of these friendships, because I had always heard that Italians have an “out of sight, out of mind” mentality. I have found that idea to be completely untrue, at least regarding my friends here.
The beauty of my arrival in Florence this year was that I knew I already had established friendships here.
While these friendships have made the transition this year easier and they will certainly make my birthday party quite fun, I do miss those friends and family from home.
On my birthday, it is hard not to wish for you all to be here with me, but being here, on my own this year is what I need to do. Today, that is clear to me. I know from all your words, thoughts, calls, cards, and letters how much I am loved and that is really all I need.
Of course, today I am reflecting on this past year as well and in that regard, I really do consider myself one of the luckiest people on earth. In the last year, I began graduate school; I met Tim, who continues to be one of the most important people in my life; I presented at my first conference; I introduced several new students to Italian and got them to really love it; and I realized without a doubt that I am meant to be a teacher and that I am now, exactly where I am supposed to be.
I do wonder if this year will result in another big change in me. My Italian IS already getting better! Well it will be fun to ponder that in another four years!
My life is not perfect. I am not perfect. Yes, there are things that I do not have, but I have so much to be happy about that I have no reason to complain about turning 38 or being away from home, as I do so! Distance and age are all relative right? All that matters is that you all are a part of my life and I am so happy for that. So, I say Happy Birthday to me!!! And many more…with you all by my side! I love you all!

Ying and Yang: Why I love and why I hate Florence at the same time.

So, shall I give you the good or bad first? I guess it's best to start with the negative, because after that everything else will be great. Yes sadly, there are negative things about Florence, the worst of which being the Italian bureacracy and in that case, you can't really blame Florence alone.

Yesterday, as some of you may have read on my facebook page, I had to report to the Italian Questura in Florence. This is a place that is equivalent to an immigration office in the United States, although, much much less organized. Three weeks ago, I was given an appointment time and date to have my fingerprints taken, so that I could obtain a valid, one-year permit to stay in Florence, or un permesso di soggiorno. My appointment was at 10:30 am yesterday. Knowing the difficulties which sometimes ensue in these situations, I stopped by school first and told them what was up, because I had to teach at 12:45. I then went to the questura and was in line by 9:36 a.m. Now, I was given a number to wait for and when it was called it was 10:23 a.m. So, I thought I was in good shape. Well it turns out that the first line you wait in, is basically just the sorting line. From there you are given another number to wait in line for. I received that number at 10:27 am. It was called at 3:05pm!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now, I get that there are a lot of people who have to get in and out of the immigration of office on a daily basis, but seriously, why the hell give someone an appointment time that is completely unrealistic and cannot be kept, by any stretch of the immagination? So, yesterday I spent a whole day, sitting on my butt, in Florence, waiting for a number to be called. I tried like crazy to make the best of it. I planned lessons, read a book, wrote a letter, made a couple of phone calls, chatted with other folks, but in the end I was completely frustrated by the Italian system of appointment making and keeping. So what I have learned from this is, like the Pirates' Code in the Pirates of the Carribean, Italian appointments, especially with the government, are more like guidelines! Sadly, I must report to the questura one more time to get the final document. That appointment just happens to be scheduled for what will be the fourth day of our fall break, which means I now have to delay any travel plans until after that day, because you don't mess with the questura!

So, bureacracy being the downside of things, spontaneous events in Florence are definitely the upside! Two night ago, on my way home, I was walking through the Piazza del Duomo, when I was pleasantly suprised by an impromptù parade given by an amazingly energenic percussion group, whose name was Bandéo! This was actually the day when I was feeling down and missing all of you a lot!! I saw the group preparing to perform and really did not think much of it. A lot of times things spring up in Florence and they are not that exciting. Usually they have something to do with the reenactment of an event in Renaissance Italy, so folks get all dressed up in old-timey garb and march in somewhat of a melancholy manner through the narrow, old cobbled streets. They are usually accompained by a few drummers and a group of flag throwers. The group that I saw this night was definitely different!

They were men and women of all ages and they were carrying and wearing all different types of percussion instruments. There were tambourines, drums, those jingling scarves that belly dancers wear, triangles, wooden blocks, and yes, even cow bells! (You can never have too much cow bell!) Like all the other real Italians here, I was curious and so I stopped for a bit to see what was going on, but as you can tell from the first part of this blog, timing means little to Italians, so I thought I should just go home, because I was sad and I didn't want to just stand around and wait. I had no sooner turned my back to go home, when the group began to play. And it was incredible. This group was clearly not into the dreary dirges of 500 years ago, but was instead fully emerged in the music of a more Latin influence. The drumming was loud and it was the kind that cut right through to your soul. From the moment they started playing, I could not have been sad if I tried and I could not go home! I could feel nothing except the beat of the music. For lack of a better word, their performance rocked.

What an amazing thing it was to see, hear, and feel just in the shadow of the Duomo. It was a strange juxtaposition, but it worked. Of course, the band did not stand still; they moved, and drummed and danced all the way to the Piazza della Signorina. And, like any good Italian resident/citizen/transplant, I followed them and danced along. After a while, everyone was dancing in the streets and it was so crowded, but so amazing. It was only then that I lamented the Europeans long-standing disregard for deoderant. :( You have to imagine the town you live in, whether it be Fulton, Baldwinsville, Carrboro, Bastrop, or Ithaca...imagine that in one sweeping moment, the streets just fill up with everyone who lives there and everyone who is visiting, because they heard the music.

For about an hour on Tuesday night, everything in the center of Florence came to a standstill, except for the drummers drumming and the dancers dancing. It was as if the city just needed a quick dance break and so this group of brilliant percussionists filled that need!

Florence can be a little stuffy sometimes, a little too cold some people say, but good music can just cut right through that, just as it did my bad mood.

What can I say...sometimes I hate Florence and other times, most of the time, I just love her like she's my own!

Fate in Florence?

The longer I live, the more I believe in Fate or rather in the fact that life gives you exactly what you need, whether you knew you needed it or not. Last night, I was further convinced by the surprising generosity that I found in a couple from England.

For the first time in three years, I returned to one of my favorite pizzerias in Florence; Ciro and sons. After all this time, my favorite waiter still worked there and still remembered me! Now, I say that this is one of my favorite pizzerias, because the pizza is very very good and exactly what I want in an authentic pie, but the prices are less than desirable.

In any case, I sat down to eat and ordered a pizza, a salad, some water, and a single glass of house red wine; which in most establishments will cost you about Euro 1,50 or
2. To my astonishment, the glass of wine at Ciro & sons was Euro 6, which is more than I ever pay for a whole bottle of wine. None of this was known to me though, since I didn't look at the menu, but ordered from memory.

While I began to eat my dinner and drink my wine, a English-speaking couple was seating next to me. And as I couldn't help but listen to their discussion about what to order, I jumped in and made my recommendations. Thus began an hour-long conversation between Kevin and Ann, from just outside of London, and me! These were some of the most pleasant folks I have ever met in my life. They kept asking about the UNC program and life in Florence, as well as dinner recommendations for tonight. I, of course, pointed them to La Giostra, which is an upscale, but still affordable restaurant where everyone is treated like a king. I also gave them advice on visiting museums and the like. It was such a nice time and they apologized more than once for interrupting my dinner. But, to be honest, I didn't really want to eat alone, so they were welcome company!

Initially, they ordered tap water, but the waiter would only sell them bottled water, so as I finished my dinner and had almost a whole liter of water left, I gave it to them.

Now, where does Fate come into all this you might ask...well when the bill came, I was astonished to see that it was 22 Euro. I only had 18 in cash. So, I went to use my credit card, which I then discovered I had left at home!!! So, Kevin gave me the difference and I was able to pay for my meal and not have to beg the waiters to let me come back the next day to pay them.

It's funny how things just work out that way. I thanked Kevin and Ann and we exchanged email addresses. I hope to somehow repay them in the future for their kind gesture. They kept telling me that just my pleasant conversation and advice was payment enough. Go figure!

It just goes to show that you never know...I didn't want to eat alone last night and so I didn't. I needed help to pay for my meal and help arrived. Sometimes you just have to be open to whatever it is that life or Fate drops in your lap!

In Memoriam

It’s funny what a difference a few hours can make.
When I blogged earlier this afternoon, the sky was blue, the sun was shining and I had just finished cleaning my apartment. Everything was perfect. Only a few moments ago, the clouds rolled in, the thunder clapped, and the rain began to pour. Then, as if on cue, my phone rang. It was my sister calling with bad news. Our friend and my sister’s best friend’s mother had passed away. We all called her Meme.
She was an incredibly wonderful and beautiful person who took in my sister, as well as me, as her own. She was of Italian descent and always talked about the Old Country, but never once had the opportunity to come to Italy and for that I am sorry. I always did my best to tell her all the wonderful things about this place. The last time I saw Meme, was four weeks ago and she asked me to say hello to the Pope for her. She had been sick for the last few months and now she is gone and I hope, with her husband, her one and only true love, who died almost two years ago. I only new Meme for a short time, but I will never forget her, because she was so loving and so kind and frankly we had the same political views. It was so much fun to sit with her and bitch about the old administration while praying for this new one.
Thinking of Meme makes me realize that life is just too short. Tell the people you love how you feel, before it’s too late. You just never know when someone you love will be taken from you. There is no time to waste.
So, now I have opened a bottle of red wine and I am going to sit outside, watch it rain, and lift a glass in honor of Meme; everyone’s favorite surrogate grandmother. She will be deeply missed by so many!